Cantinetta, Bellevue

• rustico, elegante and delizioso: a great addition to downtown Bellevue

During the past decade there has been amazing growth in Bellevue with newly constructed high-rises, an ever increasing population and a slue of new restaurants. A welcomed trend is privately owned restaurants that offer a level of service, quality and atmosphere that is unmatched by the corporate “big-boys” like Maggiano's, P.F. Chang's and The Cheesecake Factory. The newly opened Bellevue Cantinetta is an off-shoot of the popular, quaint Seattle Cantinetta tucked away in a Wallingford neighborhood.
Located at street level on Old Main Street, Cantinetta is a small restaurant (by Bellevue standards) with a warm atmosphere of a Tuscan Trattoria. The dimly lit, high ceiling room has massive windows, Italian country chandeliers, re-claimed wood floors, warm brown tones and hefty rustic wood furniture. Dining options include small, medium and large rectangular tables, an outdoor sidewalk section and a curved rustic bar to enjoy a glass of wine or a complete meal.

The menu is small and precise showcasing fresh house-made pastas, Tuscan inspired antipasti and entrées created with local organic and seasonal ingredients. The young chef is the talented Tomer Shneor who is originally from Haifa, Israel and has spent time in some of New York’s finest restaurants. We had an opportunity to speak with Tomer as he walked us through the menu and highlighted the details of various preparations and the quality local ingredients. The chef is excited about sourcing fresh, local produce from the Bellevue Farmers Market.

The menu is organized in traditional Tuscan fashion with Antipasti, Contorni, Primi, Secondi and Dolci. Kate and I decided to order something from each section and share our picks. We brought a bottle of Giuseppe Campagnola Le Bine Valpolicella Classico Superiore, 2006 which we new would be a great compliment to our meal. We started with the antipasti of Heirloom Tomato, Burrata, mizuna. The presentation was simple and elegant with chunks of fresh orange and red tomato, a cut ball of creamy white Burrata cheese and a mound of well-dressed delicate greens. Our primo plati was fresh Tagliatelle with summer corn, house made pancetta and fresh Shitake. The perfectly cooked pasta was delicate and delicious and the sweet summer corn was deftly balanced by the smoky/salty pancetta and the earthy shitake mushrooms. Our secondi was fresh Halibut with caramelized Zucchini. The super-fresh Halibut was cooked very well with a crispy pan-seared crust and a moist flaky interior. The fish was plated over a puréed sweet yellow pepper sauce with caramelized yellow and green squash. For the contorni ( side dish) we ordered the Eggplant. The eggplant was fantastic and quite memorable with a preparation that includes marinating for at least 24 hours, then slow cooking with olive oil and tomato creating intensely flavorful morsels…yum. For dessert (dolci) we had the warm Chocolate Budino. This was a perfect dessert to savor as we finished off our lovely Valpolicella. The Budino (Italian for pudding) was rich, voluptuous, creamy chocolate heaven made with olive oil and perked up with a delightful sprinkling of sea salt. Kate told Chef Shneor that she would love to have the recipe!

Overall, Cantinetta is a great addition to the Bellevue dining scene. The restaurant is warm and inviting, the service is attentive and professional and the food is simple, elegant and delicious. We look forward to trying every item on the delightful, inspired menu. We will definitely return in the near future; this could be the start of a long and satisfying relationship. Cantinetta is located at 10038 Main Street in Bellevue, Washington.

Vini La Quercia Wines

Excellent Montepulciano d' Abruzzo Wines: DOC and DOCG

Earlier this month we purchased three different wines from Wines from Italy, a specialty importer of well crafted Italian wines. All of these wines are made by Vini La Quercia in Morro D'Oro, a small town located in the heart of the "Colline Teramane" in the province of Teramo, Abruzzo. "La Quercia"'s vineyards are located on sunny hills between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso mountain. Their location, land and elevation allows the optimal climate and conditions for ideal grapes cultivation that helps them create excellent wines with unique characteristics. La Quercia is a small estate winery that takes pride in producing great wines that are a good reflection of Abruzzo. Abruzzo is about two-thirds mountains and one-third hills. It is east of Rome from the center of the Italian Peninsula to the Adriatic coast. It has four provinces; Chieti, L'Aquilla, Pescara, and Teramo. The main grape varieties are the white Trebiano and the red Montepulciano. There is a town in Tuscany called Montepulciano that should not be confused with the grape variety. All three wines we tried were made from the Montepulciano grape and each represents a different style or “level” of wine.

The first wine is the Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, DOC, 2008. This wine is made without the use of oak barrels and is released and often enjoyed while young. This wine has a deep purple color and a pleasant nose of black fruit, wet rocks and spice. This is a medium bodied wine with rich dark berry flavors, crisp acidity of cooked cranberries and abundant gripping tannins that cloak the tongue. A good “food wine” that can pair well with a sharp cheese or a bowl of Pasta Arrabiata. Available for about $14.

The second wine (tier) is the Primamadre, Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, DOC, 2007. This wine is also 100% Montepulciano, aged in oak barrels for about 6 months. The Primamadre is a bigger wine then the first, with rich berry flavors accented by spicy oak, licorice, flint and black pepper. This is a medium bodied wine with a dark ruby/purple color, sweet tannins and ample acidity. The flavors are bold and concentrated elevating this wine above the everyday pizza wine. Available for about $16.

The third wine (upper echelon) is the Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Colline Teramane, Primamadre, DOCG, 2005. Though the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo variety of grapes is grown all over Abruzzo, it is in the hilly territory of Colline Teramane, in the province of Teramo, that it bears its best fruit. Thus, when the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo appellation DOCG was created in 2003, the sub-zone of Colline Teramane was designated for special wines that qualify for the DOCG status. This is a special wine that proves that big, bold, quality wines can be made from the Montepulciano grape in the Abruzzo region. This wine is aged for two to three years total in steel vats, oak barrels and the bottle, before release. This wine has a dark purple color with a ruby rim. Full bodied with impressive concentration; there are gobs of spicy black fruit, mineral accented dried strawberry and cherry and long chewy finish. With a nice mixture of quality fruit, smooth tannins, crisp acidity and toasty oak, this wine should cellar well for another 10 years. We enjoyed this wine with some delicious Sicilian-inspired food at La Medusa, in Seattle. This wine is available for about $22.

All three of these wines, from Vini La Quercia, are very enjoyable and great with hearty Italian fare. This winery is proving that like Tuscany and Piedmont, Abruzzo has some great red wines worth seeking out.
　

Montebuena Rioja, 2009

It strikes me funny that we are already drinking a Rioja from the 2009 vintage…. wow, these grapes were picked just 10 months ago! The 2009 Montebuena is 100% Tempranillo that sees no oak. In the glass it has a dark ruby/purple color and is nearly opaque. This young wine shows a appealing bouquet of blackberry, fig, leather and baking spice. On the palate it is packed with ripe blackberry, concord grape and black pepper. This is a medium bodied wine with a rich mouth-feel, good concentration, and a nice balance of spice, acidity and gentle tannins. This is the first wine we have tasted from the 2009 vintage in Rioja, and we are excited to enjoy more like this in the near future. We bought this lovely value wine from northern Spain at Pete's Wine Shop, in Bellevue, for about $13.
　

Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2001

Hanna Winery is located on a hilltop overlooking estate vineyards in the Alexander Valley near Healdsburg. Years ago, while traveling throughout the Sonoma and Napa wine districts, we stumbled across this winery for an early morning tasting spree. It was barely 11:00 am as we droving toward Calistoga. Their pretty Mediterranean styled building caught our eye and we decided we would take a look around and maybe taste one or two wines. Back in the car, an hour later and six tastes happier, we continued on our journey having discovered one of our favorite wineries in the Alexander Valley. Hanna makes a variety of wines both from the Alexander Valley and form the neighboring Russian River Valley. We are particular fans of their Cabernet Sauvignon and have purchased a few vintages to cellar and enjoy throughout the years. Last night we pulled this 2001 Cabernet from our cellar and brought it to the Purple Wine Bar and Café in Bellevue. It was a special night out as both my mother and brother are here for a visit. In the glass, this wine shows a deep, dark ruby/purple color and is nearly opaque. A heady bouquet evokes ripe red berries, plums and mocha. This is a full bodied wine with a mouth-feel that is smooth, seductive and almost viscous. On the palate, ripe black fruit, espresso, licorice, spice and mocha commingle to create a luscious and balanced wine. There are abundant smooth and well integrated tannins and the acidity level is relatively low. The finish is fat and creamy with a touch of spicy oak. This is a mature wine, but no way is it beyond it’s peek; cellar-aging has shown to be a beautiful thing. These Hanna wines are our “special occasion” wines that never fail to deliver.

Renegade Wine Co. Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, 2008

Many wineries in Washington State have developed second and third labels that allows them to bring different wines to market that can widen their public appeal. Sometimes these wines are at a lower price point and sometimes they represent wines of a different style from their primary label. The Renegade Wine Co. is the second label from Sleight of Hand Cellars from Walla Walla, Washington. This Red Wine is made from grapes coming exclusively from the Horse Heaven Hill AVA and specifically from the Canoe Ridge Vineyard. This wine is a blend of 39% Cab, 39% Cab Franc, 13% Grenache, 9% Syrah. I really like this wine. The color is a dark red with a purple hue. There are lovely aromatics of raspberry, plum, violets and dried earth. This is a medium bodied wine with flavors of black and red fruits, licorice and sage. The finish is long and harmonious complete with dusty tannins and a nice minerality. The flavor profile is delicious and a welcomed change from your typical $10 Washington State blend. If you come across this great "value wine" from Horse Heavens Hills, snatch up a few bottles.

Acacia Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2006

Acacia vineyards are set just two miles from San Francisco's San Pablo Bay, in the heart of Napa Valley's Carneros wine region. This wine growing region enjoys the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and summer fog, making it an ideal growing area for Pinot Noir grapes. This 2006 Carneros Pinot Noir has a translucent ruby color with a crimson rim. There is an expressive bouquet of red plum, raspberry, violets, leather, cinnamon and earth. This is a medium bodied wine with crisp red berry flavors blended with flavors of citrus rind, coffee and toasty oak. This wine shows nice acidity that is balanced by smooth tannins and earthy overtones that reveal a rustic, elegant profile. We don’t drink many Pinot Noirs, but truly enjoyed the nice effort by Acacia. Enjoy this wine with a nice salmon dinner. This wine retails for about $24.

Feudi di San Gregorio Rubrato, 2006

This red wine is from the Campania region of Southern Italy and is made from the Aglianico grape. Feudi di San Gregorio uses modern techniques to craft wines with distinctive characteristics of Campania; dark fruit, abundant tannins and crisp acidity. The 2006 Rubrato has a dark ruby red color and is nearly opaque. On the nose is aromas of fresh cherries, plums, violets and earth. This is a medium bodied wine loaded with flavors of black cherry, prune, cranberry, licorice, vanilla and cracked black pepper. There are moderate levels of grainy tannins and a crisp acidity that blend with some underlying minerality and essence of coffee. We enjoyed this lovely wine with a Grilled Flank Steak with Fresh Pesto and Balsamic Glazed Zucchini. This wine can be found in the Seattle area for about $15 and will pair well with a hearty grilled steak or a zesty Italian Pasta.

Hogue Cellars Sangiovese, 2005 Zephyr Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills

Hogue Cellars has been making a full range of Washington State wines for more than 25 years. This winery produces over 650,000 cases of wine per year with most of them being considered "value" wines, coming in below $16. Hogue makes a small quantity of wines that they call their “terroir” series, that are only available at the Prosser winery. This past weekend we had the privilege to taste this single vineyard Sangiovese from the Zephyr Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. We enjoyed it very much and bought a case to enjoy and give to some friends and family. The wine has a deep ruby color with nice clarity and shimmer. On the nose are notes of mineral and blackberry with slight spicy overtones. There are lively red and dark berry flavors on a medium bodied frame complimented baking spice, fig and cedar. There are smooth tannins and nice acidity that help create a balanced, mature wine. This wine is more “old world” than “new world” and shows that Sangiovese has a place in the Columbia Valley. This week we enjoyed this Sangiovese with pan seared King Salmon with fresh Green bean and Potato Pesto salad...yum!

Washington Wine Country Weekend

Red Mountain Vineyards

This past weekend we spent a few days in the Washington Wine Country. Over the past 20 years we have visited many wineries from Yakima to Walla Walla. This time we visited Hogue and Airfield Cellars in Prosser, Fidelitas and Col Solare on Red Mountain and Wilridge and Harlequin in Yakima. The highlight of the weekend was the visit to Col Solare. Col Solare is a collaboration between Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle and Italy’s famed winemaker, Marchese Antinori. Their wines are Cabernet Sauvignon based with smaller amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Syrah blended for depth and complexity. We did a vertical tasting of their 2004, 2005 and 2006 Red Wines. All of these wines were fantastic and worth the $80 price point if your budget allows the expenditure.

Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano, 2007

Poliziano is a relatively new winery that was started in 1962 with 20 acres of vineyards in Montepulciano, Italy. Rosso di Montepulcianos are red wines that achieved the DOC classification back in 1989. These wines are usually produced by wineries that craft the more prestigious Vino Nobile di Montepulciano by simply downgrading grapes that are classified as Vino Nobile. However, Poliziano has selected a number of vineyards with particular characteristics in order to obtain a wine that is young, fruity and soft; a selection that allows them to classify their Rosso di Montepulciano as the “Second Wine” of the Poliziano. This Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano has a deep ruby color that is slightly translucent. This wine is more old-world then new, with a nose of fresh cut strawberries, leather, hay and flint. This is a medium bodied wine with ripe red raspberry, strawberry, dried cranberry, tobacco, mushroom and earth. There are smooth tannins and balanced acidity and just a slight hint of cedar on the finish. Being quite delicious and easy drinking, we managed to finish the whole bottle with a casual dinner of grilled summer vegetables and some artisanal salumi. We purchased this Tuscan red wine from Pete’s Wine Shop, in Bellevue, for about $13.